On the Grapevine

FORTUNE FAVOURS THE BRAVE

31 May 2007

People love exotic connotations, especially when related to the world of wine.

A mocha coffee scented Carménère from the shadow of the Andes, or oil on canvas, picture perfect, cherry bright Tuscan sangiovese from cypress surrounded vineyards sybaritically tantalise... But fond thoughts of afar can blind us to what is under our noses, which is why I would like to share one of England's best kept secrets: her wine.

Whilst we have a long history of grape-growing dating from Roman times, then viticulturally-minded, mead-shunning monks, the modern renaissance only began (tentatively) in the 1950s. In more recent years, however, thanks to American foresight, French insight and British bravery, we have been awarded accolades from the wine world's equivalent of the Oscars, the International Wine and Spirit Challenge. Our cool clime and chalky soil is particularly favourable for fizz made to the Champagne recipe (it does after all rain some 260 days per year in northern France!) Sussex stars 'Nyetimber' and 'Ridgeview' are but two rich examples.

I am pleased to be amongst the first to review new world trained English winemaker Will Davenport's spicy still release. Horsmonden Dry '06 from Kent is organically produced, naturally fermented and unfiltered; a trio of brio intentions to tame the British maritime climate. Mild currants, muted gooseberry and marrow chutney gently rise free from the glass. This is followed by a viscid, almost Alsatian mouthfeel with a flirtation of currant leaf and greengage.
Balanced, soft with spirit and long-lived. Aside from flavour and texture, the packaging is striking, restrained (like the wine) and the cork the finest I have recently seen, no doubt representing Will's meticulous attention to detail. Find this wine at Islington's organic gastropub, 'The Duke of Cambridge'.

Find intoxicating prose: www.thedailywine.co.uk

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